Mera Peak Expedition Nepal

Trip Code: NP-38 Country: Nepal Duration: 14 Days Best Time: Mar to May & Sep to Nov Base Price: 2595 USD Level: Challenging Season: Autumn, Spring

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Overview

Mera Peak Expedition — Overview

At 6,476 metres, Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal and one of the most accessible 6,000m summits in the world. The climb does not require prior technical mountaineering experience, but it demands serious commitment: a 14-day round trip from Kathmandu through the remote and little-visited Hinku Valley south of the Khumbu, with two structured acclimatisation days before a pre-dawn summit push from high camp at 5,800m on a glacier that is wide, open, and — on a clear October morning — as beautiful as any terrain in the Himalaya.

What Mera Peak delivers in return for that commitment is unique in Nepal. On the summit, five of the world’s six highest mountains are visible simultaneously: Everest (8,849m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Cho Oyu (8,188m). There is no other single summit in Nepal from which this panorama is possible. It is not an exaggeration: standing on the top of Mera Peak on a clear day is among the most extraordinary visual experiences available to any climber anywhere on earth.

The approach is itself a significant part of what makes Mera Peak distinct. The Hinku Valley route sees a fraction of the foot traffic of the main Khumbu corridor — deep rhododendron gorges, seasonal yak pastures, and high ridges with almost no other expeditions in sight. By the time the route reaches Khare (5,045m), the staging base for the summit push, the team has the upper Hinku entirely to themselves. This remoteness is part of what makes Mera Peak so compelling — and part of what makes thorough preparation and guide expertise so important.

Summit Routes runs Mera Peak fully supported with certified high-altitude guides, complete technical equipment, and an itinerary built around safe, thorough acclimatisation — not the fastest possible turnaround.

Why Mera Peak

Nepal’s Highest Trekking Peak — At 6,476m, Mera Peak stands above every other trekking peak in Nepal. It is a genuine high-altitude summit — not a walk-up, but achievable for fit, motivated climbers with no prior technical experience and the right support.
The Five-8000m-Peak Panorama — The summit view encompasses Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu simultaneously — the most concentrated collection of 8,000m peaks visible from any single point in the Himalaya. No other accessible summit in Nepal offers this view.
Remote Hinku Valley Approach — The Hinku Valley is one of the least-travelled routes in the Khumbu region — deep gorges, rhododendron forests, and high pastures with almost no other expeditions in sight. A genuinely different experience from the main Khumbu trail.
Technical Introduction at High Altitude — Mera Peak introduces glacier travel, crampon technique, fixed-line ascent, and ice axe use in a guided, well-managed environment. An ideal first step for those considering more demanding Himalayan objectives.
Fully Supported with All Technical Equipment — Crampons, harness, ice axe, helmet, and fixed lines are all provided. You carry only your personal gear on summit day — everything else moves on the support team.

Important Notes

Best Season: October–November (autumn) for the most reliable summit windows and the best visibility — October in particular delivers the highest success rates and the clearest five-peak panorama from the summit. April–May (spring) is also possible but the summit view is less consistently clear.
Alpine Grade: F to PD (Facile to Peu Difficile) — the summit route ascends a 30–40° snow and glacier slope without a technical headwall. The climb is non-technical compared to Island Peak but the altitude (6,476m), pre-dawn conditions, and sustained physical effort on the glacier are not to be underestimated.
Summit Height: 6,476m. High Camp at 5,800m is the overnight high point before summit day. Mera La at 5,415m is crossed on Day 8.
Technical Requirements: Crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet are required on the glacier above Mera La. All technical equipment is provided by Summit Routes. The Day 7 training session at Khare covers all required techniques — no prior glacier experience is necessary, though high-altitude trekking fitness is essential.
Prerequisite Experience: At least one multi-day high-altitude trek above 4,500m is strongly recommended. Climbers with no trekking experience above 4,000m should discuss their background with us before booking. Read our guide to altitude sickness in the Himalaya before departure.
Permits: Summit Routes arranges all required permits, including the Mera Peak climbing permit (NMA), Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and TIMS card. All permits are included in the price.
Lukla Flight: The trek begins and ends with a 35-minute flight to/from Lukla. Weather cancellations are common. A buffer day (Day 10) is built into the itinerary, but do not book non-refundable onward connections within 48 hours of your scheduled Lukla return.
Fitness Standard: Must be comfortable trekking 10–16 km daily for multiple consecutive days with a loaded pack above 4,000m, and physically capable of sustained effort at 5,800–6,476m on glacier terrain before dawn. The combination of altitude and pre-dawn cold on summit day makes physical preparation more important here than on most comparable objectives.

Brief Itinerary

Day 1	Arrive Kathmandu (1,400m) — Expedition Briefing
Day 2	Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,860m) — Trek to Chutanga (3,050m)
Day 3	Trek Chutanga to Kothe (3,600m)
Day 4	Trek Kothe to Thangnak (4,358m)
Day 5	Acclimatisation Day — Hike above Thangnak (~4,700m)
Day 6	Trek Thangnak to Khare (5,045m)
Day 7	Acclimatisation & Pre-Climb Technical Training — Khare
Day 8	Trek Khare via Mera La (5,415m) to High Camp (5,800m)
Day 9	Summit Day — Mera Peak (6,476m) — Descend to Khare (5,045m)
Day 10	Buffer / Rest Day — Khare (weather contingency)
Day 11	Trek Khare to Kothe (3,600m)
Day 12	Trek Kothe to Lukla (2,860m)
Day 13	Fly Lukla to Kathmandu — Sightseeing
Day 14	Departure from Kathmandu

Altitude Profile

Itinerary

Mera Peak Expedition — 14-Day Itinerary (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)

Route: Lukla — Chutanga — Kothe — Thangnak — Khare — Mera La — High Camp — Summit (6,476m) — Khare — Kothe — Lukla

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu (1,400m) — Expedition Briefing

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) and private transfer to hotel in Kathmandu.
Equipment check, expedition briefing, and permit verification with your Summit Routes guide. Confirm crampon and boot compatibility — the most common gear issue on this expedition. Boot hire is available in Kathmandu on request.
Evening briefing: full route overview, altitude profile, acclimatisation strategy, summit day protocol, and safety procedures.
Overnight: Hotel Amaryllis or similar, Kathmandu
Meals: Dinner

Day 2: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,860m) — Trek to Chutanga (3,050m)

Flight: ~35 minutes • Trek: ~5 km | 2–3 hours

Early morning transfer to the domestic terminal for the flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla. Depart early; weather cancellations are possible — do not book non-refundable onward connections within 48 hours of the return Lukla flight.
The Mera Peak route diverges immediately south of Lukla — away from the busy Everest Base Camp trail into the far less-travelled Hinku Valley. From the first steps the atmosphere is noticeably quieter and more remote than anything on the main Khumbu corridor.
A gentle introductory walk through pine and rhododendron forest to the camp at Chutanga (3,050m).
Overnight: Tea-house / camp at Chutanga
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 3: Trek Chutanga to Kothe (3,600m)

Trek: ~14 km | 6–7 hours

One of the more demanding days on the approach — the trail descends steeply through dense rhododendron and oak forest into the Hinku Drangka gorge, one of the most dramatic valley descents in the region, before crossing the Hinku river and climbing to the small settlement of Kothe.
The significant descent before re-ascent is a characteristic of the Hinku Valley that catches trekkers by surprise — trekking poles are strongly recommended and pacing is important on the descent sections.
Kothe has basic but adequate tea-houses and a feeling of genuine remoteness; other expeditions are rarely seen beyond this point.
Overnight: Tea-house at Kothe
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 4: Trek Kothe to Thangnak (4,358m)

Trek: ~10 km | 5–6 hours

Steady ascent through the upper Hinku Valley as the terrain opens progressively from dense forest into high alpine moorland. The valley's character changes markedly above 3,800m — yak pastures replace forest, and the first glacier views appear on the ridgelines ahead.
Pass the small Gondishung monastery — an isolated Buddhist shrine in the high valley, worth a brief stop. The monastery is one of the few permanent structures in the upper Hinku and gives a sense of how remote this terrain truly is.
Arrive at Thangnak (4,358m), a seasonal herders' settlement at the base of the Hinku glacier. This will be the base for the mandatory acclimatisation day tomorrow.
Overnight: Tea-house at Thangnak
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 5: Acclimatisation Day — Hike above Thangnak (~4,700m)

Mandatory rest and acclimatisation day — the first of two structured days before the summit push. Pulse oximeter readings taken morning and evening; guide monitors all team members individually.
Guided acclimatisation hike above Thangnak to approximately 4,700m — gaining and returning 340m of altitude to stimulate haematological adaptation before the route pushes to Khare (5,045m) and above.
Afternoon technical briefing: crampon fitting and walking technique, ice axe grip and arrest position, and an introduction to rope team procedures. This is the conceptual preparation for the hands-on training session at Khare on Day 7.
Overnight: Tea-house at Thangnak
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 6: Trek Thangnak to Khare (5,045m)

Trek: ~5 km | 4–5 hours

Khare (5,045m) is the last permanent settlement before the glacier and the staging base for all Mera Peak expeditions. A short day by distance, but the altitude gain is significant — take it very slowly, drink continuously, and arrive by early afternoon.
Khare sits at the edge of the Hinku glacier moraine with direct views of the Mera La and the broad upper glacier leading toward the summit. The objective becomes fully visible here for the first time.
Afternoon rest. Final equipment inspection and summit day clothing layering review — all layers tried on together in the cold air of Khare, not in Kathmandu.
Overnight: Tea-house at Khare
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 7: Acclimatisation & Pre-Climb Technical Training — Khare (5,045m)

Second full acclimatisation day at Khare — essential before the move to High Camp. Rest morning with pulse oximeter monitoring and individual assessment by the guide.
Afternoon mandatory practical training session on the glacier above Khare: crampon technique on ice and snow, ice axe self-arrest and French technique, fixed-line clipping and ascending, roped glacier travel, and rope team protocols. This session is covered in full by your Summit Routes guide — no prior experience is needed, but full engagement is essential. The guide assesses each climber's technical readiness before confirming the summit schedule.
Early dinner at 5:00 PM. Sleep by 8:00 PM — the move to High Camp is an early start tomorrow.
Overnight: Tea-house at Khare
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 8: Trek Khare via Mera La (5,415m) to High Camp (5,800m)

Trek: ~6 km | 5–6 hours

Leave Khare and ascend the moraine to the Mera La (5,415m) — the col that marks the transition from the Hinku Valley onto the Mera Glacier. Crampons are required from Mera La onwards; the terrain is glacier from this point to the summit.
Cross the Mera La and ascend the broad lower Mera Glacier to High Camp (5,800m) — a small tent camp on the glacier with direct views up the summit slope above. Wind can be strong at this exposed site; secure all equipment carefully.
Conditions assessment conducted by the guide on arrival. Weather forecast reviewed. Summit departure time confirmed — typically midnight to 1:00 AM.
Dinner at 5:00 PM. Sleep by 7:00 PM. Wake call at midnight for summit push.
Overnight: Expedition tents at Mera High Camp (5,800m)
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 9: Summit Day — Mera Peak (6,476m) — Descend to Khare (5,045m)

Ascent: ~3 km | 4–5 hours to summit • Total day: 9–11 hours

Alpine start at midnight–1:00 AM by headlamp. The route ascends the Mera Glacier on a wide, open snow slope at 30–40° — strenuous and sustained, but non-technical by the standards of more advanced trekking peaks. The guide manages the rope team throughout, setting pace and monitoring conditions on the upper glacier.
Summit of Mera Peak (6,476m): On a clear October morning — and October gives the most reliable conditions of the year — Everest (8,849m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Cho Oyu (8,188m) are all simultaneously visible. This is the finest high-altitude panorama available from any trekking peak in Nepal. Allow time here.
Descend the same route to High Camp, collect tents, and continue down fully to Khare (5,045m) by mid-to-late afternoon. The 1,431m descent in a single day is physically demanding but the altitude loss accelerates recovery significantly.
Overnight: Tea-house at Khare
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 10: Buffer / Rest Day — Khare (Weather Contingency)

This day is built into the itinerary as a weather contingency for the summit push. If summit was completed on Day 9, this is a full rest and recovery day at Khare — bodies are tired and the 5,045m altitude still requires careful recovery before the long descent begins.
If summit was not possible on Day 9 due to weather or conditions, this is the reserve summit attempt day: move to High Camp on the evening of Day 9, summit attempt Day 10 — following the same protocol as above.
Overnight: Tea-house at Khare
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 11: Trek Khare to Kothe (3,600m)

Trek: ~15 km | 6–7 hours

Long descent back down the Hinku Valley — reversing the approach route through the upper alpine terrain and back into the rhododendron gorge above Kothe. After the summit day, the body is tired but the altitude drop from 5,045m to 3,600m brings a rapid and noticeable return of energy and appetite.
Overnight: Tea-house at Kothe
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 12: Trek Kothe to Lukla (2,860m)

Trek: ~16 km | 6–7 hours

Final full trek day — through the lower Hinku gorge back to Lukla, retracing the approach route through forest and over the Hinku river crossings.
Farewell dinner in Lukla — the mountain is behind you. Tips for the guide and porter team are customary and appreciated.
Overnight: Tea-house in Lukla
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day 13: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu — Sightseeing

Flight: ~35 minutes

Early transfer to Lukla Airport for the return flight to Kathmandu. Flights depart early — be at the airport by 6:00 AM. Weather cancellations are possible; do not book non-refundable onward international connections within 48 hours of this flight.
Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Free afternoon for rest or sightseeing — Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, or the craft shops of Thamel.
Overnight: Hotel Amaryllis or similar, Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

Day 14: Departure from Kathmandu

Private transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) for onward flights.
Meals: Breakfast

Pricing

NP-38 – Mera Peak Expedition Nepal (14 Days)
Starting from USD 2,595 per person
(Based on 2 climbers, private certified guide & porter support)

Includes domestic flights, certified high-altitude guide, complete technical equipment, permits & full expedition logistics — no hidden costs.

👉 Request Custom Itinerary & Quote

INCLUDED

All private transportation throughout the programme (airport transfers Kathmandu)
13 nights accommodation:
- 2 nights hotel in Kathmandu (twin sharing, attached bathroom) — 1 arrival, 1 return
- 10 nights in tea-houses throughout the trek (twin sharing) — Chutanga, Kothe, Thangnak (×2), Khare (×2), Khare buffer, Kothe, Lukla, Kathmandu
- 1 night in expedition tents at Mera High Camp (5,800m)
Domestic flight tickets: Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu (both ways)
All required permits: Mera Peak climbing permit (Nepal Mountaineering Association), Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, TIMS card
Certified high-altitude guide (Nepal Tourism Board licensed) throughout the full 14 days
Porter support (1 porter per 2 climbers) for all trail days
All technical climbing equipment: crampons, harness, ice axe, helmet, fixed lines, carabiners
High camp expedition tents and cooking equipment
All meals as specified in the day-to-day itinerary
Pulse oximeter monitoring throughout all high-altitude days
Pre-climb technical training session at Khare (Day 7)
All entrance fees, government taxes, and service charges

NOT INCLUDED

International flights to/from Kathmandu
Nepal visa fees
Travel insurance (mandatory — must cover mountaineering above 6,500m and helicopter evacuation)
Personal climbing clothing and mountaineering boots (boot hire available in Kathmandu — ask on enquiry)
Summit day supplemental oxygen (available on request — ask on enquiry for pricing)
Personal expenses (hot showers, extra snacks, beverages, charging fees above Kothe, etc.)
Tips for guide and porter
Anything not mentioned under "Included"

Group Pricing (indicative per person)

Group Size	Price (USD) per Person
2 climbers	2,595
3–4 climbers	2,295
5–8 climbers	2,095
9+ climbers	On request

Hotel List

Accommodation

Kathmandu (2 Nights — Arrival & Return)

Accommodation in Kathmandu is arranged at Hotel Amaryllis or a similar centrally located hotel in the Thamel area. Rooms are twin sharing with attached bathroom, hot shower, electricity, and Wi-Fi. The arrival night is used for briefing, equipment checks, and permit verification. The return night (Day 13) provides time for recovery, a final Kathmandu evening, and a comfortable buffer before onward travel — and absorbs any same-day Lukla flight delay without disrupting your international connection.

Trek — Tea-Houses (10 Nights)

Tea-house accommodation throughout the approach at Chutanga, Kothe, Thangnak (two nights), Khare (two nights approach + one buffer night), Kothe, and Lukla. Rooms are twin sharing; attached bathrooms are available at most tea-houses at Kothe and below, becoming less common above Thangnak.

A few practical notes by location: Kothe is the most comfortable stop on the approach with reasonable facilities. Thangnak is basic but adequate for two nights — cold evenings make a good sleeping bag essential here. Khare (5,045m) is the expedition hub — two tea-houses, basic but functional, with limited menu options and no hot shower. This is the last point with any infrastructure before the glacier; it is also where climbers who are not acclimatising well will be held for additional rest before the guide clears them to proceed. Warm sleeping gear rated to -15°C is essential from Thangnak upward.

Mera High Camp — Expedition Tents (1 Night)

One night at High Camp (5,800m) on the Mera Glacier in expedition tents provided by Summit Routes. The site is exposed and can be windy — all gear must be secured on arrival. This is the only night of the expedition not in a tea-house, and it is spartan by necessity: the focus is entirely on rest, hydration, and preparation for the midnight summit departure. A sleeping bag rated to -15°C or colder is non-negotiable here.

What to Pack

What to Pack — Mera Peak Expedition

Mera Peak spans 1,400m in Kathmandu to 6,476m at the summit across 14 days. Pack for the full range: subtropical lowlands at the start, cold nights above Thangnak, and pre-dawn glacier conditions at High Camp (5,800m) where wind chill in October routinely reaches -15°C to -20°C. All technical climbing equipment — crampons, harness, ice axe, helmet, and fixed lines — is provided by Summit Routes. Your porter carries the main duffel bag between tea-houses; you carry only a personal daypack on trail. At High Camp, the support team handles camp logistics.

Clothing & Layers

Heavy down jacket rated to -15°C to -20°C — for nights at Thangnak, Khare, High Camp, and the midnight summit start. A standard trekking puffer is insufficient above 5,000m on this expedition.
Waterproof hardshell jacket — for summit conditions and afternoon weather above 4,000m. Weather in the Hinku Valley can change quickly even in October.
Insulating fleece mid-layer × 2
Moisture-wicking base layers (top and bottom) × 3 — merino wool handles the temperature range and multi-day odour management better than synthetic.
Waterproof hardshell trousers — essential for the summit glacier and any wet conditions on the approach trail.
Trekking trousers × 2 — lightweight and fast-drying for the lower approach days.
Thermal leggings × 2 — for nights at Thangnak, Khare, and High Camp.
Balaclava — non-negotiable for the midnight High Camp departure and the upper glacier. The exposed Mera La col and the open glacier above it funnel wind significantly.
Warm hat and wide-brimmed sun hat — both. UV intensity above 5,000m on the open glacier is severe; glacier reflection amplifies it further.
Mountaineering gloves — a lightweight liner pair and a heavy insulated outer pair. Touching cold metal equipment (crampons, ice axe, fixed lines) at pre-dawn temperatures without proper gloves causes rapid skin damage.
Heavyweight trekking socks × 4–5 pairs — merino wool preferred; dedicated warm summit socks for High Camp nights and summit day.
Camp shoes or down booties — for rest time at tea-houses in the evenings.

Footwear

Mountaineering boots or stiff B2/B3-rated trekking boots compatible with step-in crampons — fully broken in before arrival. This is the single most critical gear decision. Standard trekking boots cannot safely accept technical crampons on glacier terrain. Boot hire is available in Kathmandu — ask on enquiry if you need guidance on boot requirements before travel.
Crampons — provided by Summit Routes, fitted to your boots at Khare on Day 7.
Trekking poles × 2 — strongly recommended for the significant descent-and-re-ascent profile on Day 3 (Hinku gorge) and all return days. Not used on the technical sections above Mera La.
Gaiters — for snow on the glacier approach above Mera La and wet terrain on the lower valley trail.

Personal Health & Safety

Altitude medication — consult your doctor about Diamox well before departure. The itinerary arrives at 4,358m on Day 4 and reaches 6,476m on Day 9. Read our guide to altitude sickness in the Himalaya.
Personal first aid kit — blister plasters, ibuprofen, paracetamol, antihistamines, rehydration sachets, anti-diarrhoeal tablets. No pharmacies above Lukla.
Glacier sunglasses or goggles — Category 4 UV protection — non-negotiable on the Mera Glacier. Standard sunglasses cause snow blindness on a full day at this altitude and reflectivity. Wrap-around frames essential; goggles recommended for summit day.
High-SPF sunscreen (50+) — apply to all exposed skin including under the chin (glacier reflection). Carry enough for the full 14 days; no resupply is possible above Lukla.
Lip balm with SPF — glacier UV and cold air together cause rapid severe lip damage.
Hand sanitiser and wet wipes — water at Khare and High Camp is from snowmelt only.
Personal prescription medicines — carry at least double your required quantity.

Gear & Equipment

Sleeping bag rated to -15°C — nights at Khare and High Camp can drop to -10°C or below even in October. A 4-season bag is strongly recommended for this expedition. This is the single most important piece of personal gear you bring.
Sleeping bag liner — adds warmth and keeps your bag clean over 12 nights.
Trekking daypack (30–40L) — carries daily essentials on trail and all summit-day personal kit from High Camp. The porter carries your main duffel on approach days.
Main duffel bag (60–70L, soft-sided, no hard frame) — for porter loading. Hard-framed luggage cannot be safely carried on mountain trails.
Headlamp + spare lithium batteries — the midnight High Camp departure makes this mission-critical. Cold kills alkaline batteries within an hour above 5,000m. Store all spares inside your sleeping bag overnight before summit day.
Insulated water bottles × 2 (1L each) — standard plastic bottles freeze solid at High Camp overnight. Vacuum-flask or insulated Nalgene essential. Store water bottles inside your sleeping bag overnight.
Water purification tablets — for snowmelt and stream water above Kothe.
Power bank — no charging facilities above Kothe. Charge fully in Lukla or Kothe; bring sufficient capacity for camera and phone through summit day.
Dry bag or waterproof pack cover — the lower Hinku Valley trail can be wet, and the glacier approach involves condensation.
Hand warmers — chemical or reusable; useful for the midnight High Camp departure and the upper glacier.

Documents & Money

Passport — valid 6+ months beyond your travel date.
Nepal visa — available on arrival at Kathmandu airport. Bring USD cash and a passport photo.
Permit documentation — Summit Routes arranges all permits; carry printed copies for checkpoint verification at Lukla and the NMA Mera Peak permit check at Khare.
Travel insurance documents — must cover mountaineering above 6,500m and emergency helicopter evacuation. Verify your policy specifically covers Mera Peak at 6,476m before travel. This is mandatory.
Cash in Nepali Rupees — ATMs available in Kathmandu and Lukla. No ATMs above Lukla on the Hinku route. Carry sufficient rupees for all personal expenses (hot showers, snacks, charging, tips) — approximately 12 days from Lukla to departure.

Optional but Useful

Camera with multiple spare batteries — cold kills batteries within an hour above 5,500m. Keep all spares in an inner pocket against your body overnight before summit day.
Lightweight down trousers — for evenings at Khare and High Camp.
High-energy summit day snacks — energy gels, bars, nuts, electrolyte tablets. Bring from home; nothing is available above Kothe.
Small padlock for your duffel bag at Kathmandu hotels.

For a complete Himalayan packing guide with brand recommendations and a printable checklist, see our Himalayan Trekking Gear List →

Boot and crampon compatibility is the most common equipment issue on this expedition. If you are unsure whether your boots accept step-in crampons, contact us before travel — boots are available to rent in Kathmandu and we can advise based on your specific footwear.

Safety Protocols

Safety & Emergency Protocols — Mera Peak Expedition (6,476m)

Your safety is the absolute priority on every Summit Routes expedition. Mera Peak reaches 6,476m — the highest altitude on any Summit Routes Nepal programme — and involves a pre-dawn glacier push from High Camp at 5,800m in conditions that can include severe wind chill, reduced visibility, and the physiological demands of sustained effort above 5,500m. Below is a full account of the safety protocols, emergency procedures, and standards maintained on every Mera Peak departure.

First Aid & Medical Equipment

Comprehensive expedition first aid kit carried by the lead guide at all times throughout the 14-day route
Pulse oximeter for daily blood-oxygen monitoring from Thangnak onward — readings logged morning and evening against individual baseline values
Emergency supplemental oxygen at Khare base and available for transport to High Camp on summit day — available for any climber showing severe AMS symptoms above 5,000m
Basic medications including Diamox, Dexamethasone, Nifedipine, analgesics, rehydration salts, and full wound and blister care supplies
Daily health check-ins at every tea-house and camp above 4,000m — appetite, sleep quality, headache, and blood-oxygen levels all assessed

Evacuation Procedure

Below Khare (Kothe and approach trail):

Assisted descent on foot through the Hinku Valley to Lukla followed by flight to Kathmandu — the standard non-helicopter route from the lower Hinku
No established helicopter landing zone exists in the deep Hinku gorge below Kothe — ground evacuation is the primary route for non-critical cases from this section

Khare (5,045m):

Helicopter landing zone at Khare meadow — used regularly for Mera Peak expedition evacuations and accessible to rescue helicopters in reasonable weather
Cases directed to B&B Hospital or Norvic Hospital, Kathmandu via Lukla flight or direct helicopter transfer

Mera La, High Camp, and Summit Glacier:

Helicopter evacuation from Khare is the primary route for serious cases from High Camp — any climber unable to descend independently is assisted down to Khare by the guide team before helicopter evacuation is called
For cases on the upper glacier, the guide is trained in assisted descent and will lower incapacitated climbers to Khare using rope techniques before activating helicopter coordination. This procedure is discussed at the Day 7 briefing.

Guide Training & Certifications

All expedition leaders are licensed by the Nepal Tourism Board with a valid Trekking and Mountaineering Guide licence
Wilderness First Responder (WFR) training or equivalent high-altitude medical certification
Minimum of three prior Mera Peak summit completions required for every lead guide — direct knowledge of current glacier conditions, crevasse zones on the upper glacier, weather patterns, and summit day management at this altitude is essential
Trained in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, rope management, and assisted descent on snow and ice
The guide's assessment of individual climber fitness at Khare (Day 7) is final — any climber not cleared to proceed will remain at Khare until the guide is satisfied, or will be descended
No summit, schedule, or booking commitment overrides the guide's safety judgement

Travel Insurance — Mandatory Requirement

Valid travel insurance is a non-negotiable condition of participation on this expedition.

Must cover mountaineering above 6,500 metres — standard trekking policies typically cap at 5,500m or 6,000m. Verify your specific policy covers Mera Peak at 6,476m before you travel.
Must include emergency helicopter evacuation — helicopter rescue from Khare to Kathmandu must be pre-authorised by your insurer before Summit Routes activates the evacuation
Must cover medical hospitalisation, emergency repatriation, and trip cancellation including Lukla flight weather delays
The insurance policy must be shared with Summit Routes before departure
Climbers without valid, verified insurance cannot join this expedition — no exceptions

Not sure which policy covers mountaineering at 6,476m? See our Insurance & Permits FAQ.

Emergency Contact Protocol During the Expedition

For Family / Next of Kin

A dedicated emergency contact number is provided to all clients before departure. Our Kathmandu coordinator monitors every active Mera Peak departure and will contact your nominated next-of-kin within 2 hours of any serious incident.

On the Mountain

Mobile signal (NTC and Ncell) is available at Lukla. Signal is intermittent at Kothe and absent above Thangnak through to the return to Lukla. Our guides are aware of the specific locations on the approach trail where signal is occasionally accessible for emergency use. Rescue coordination from Khare and above is managed through the guide's emergency satellite call procedure.

Rescue Coordination

Summit Routes maintains coordination with TAAN Rescue, the Nepal Army Air Wing, and private helicopter operators including Fishtail Air and Simrik Air — the primary helicopter rescue operators for the Hinku Valley area.

Summit Day — Safety Management

The Mera Peak summit push involves a midnight departure from High Camp at 5,800m on a glacier in pre-dawn conditions. Our guide team manages summit day as follows:

A hard turnaround time is set at the Day 8 High Camp briefing — typically no later than 9:00–10:00 AM at the summit regardless of progress, to ensure safe descent before afternoon weather deterioration. This is non-negotiable.
If any climber cannot maintain safe pace on the glacier by the time the summit becomes visible, the guide will call a retreat — partial ascent does not endanger the team if managed early; continuing beyond safe capacity does
Conditions assessment is conducted at High Camp on arrival (Day 8) — if weather is unsuitable, the team holds at High Camp or returns to Khare. The reserve day (Day 10) exists for this eventuality.
The guide leads the rope team throughout the upper glacier — no climber moves beyond the guide's management at any point on summit day

Altitude Sickness (AMS) — Our Policy

AMS is a real risk above 3,000m and the most common medical issue on this itinerary. Read our complete altitude sickness guide before joining the expedition.

Any climber showing signs of High-Altitude Cerebral Oedema (HACE) or High-Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPE) will be descended immediately. This decision is non-negotiable and cannot be overridden by the climber under any circumstances.

The acclimatisation schedule built into this itinerary:

Day 1: Kathmandu — 1,400m
Day 2: Chutanga — 3,050m
Day 3: Kothe — 3,600m
Day 4: Thangnak — 4,358m
Day 5: Thangnak — full acclimatisation day + hike to ~4,700m
Day 6: Khare — 5,045m
Day 7: Khare — full acclimatisation day + technical training
Day 8: High Camp — 5,800m
Day 9: Mera Peak — 6,476m

Both acclimatisation days (Days 5 and 7) are non-negotiable. Any climber who is not sufficiently recovered at Thangnak or Khare will remain at that altitude for an additional day before the guide clears them to continue. The Day 7 guide assessment at Khare is the final fitness check before the summit push — any climber whose blood-oxygen levels or physical condition do not meet the guide's threshold will not proceed to High Camp on Day 8.

Have a safety question before booking?
Contact our team on WhatsApp (+91 96222 44022) or email info@summitroutes.com. We are happy to discuss Mera Peak safety considerations in detail before you commit.

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FAQ

How difficult is Mera Peak Expedition Nepal?

Challenging. The Hinku Valley approach is remote with sustained daily altitude gain. Summit day is the hardest: pre-dawn departure from 5,800m, a 4–5 hour ascent on a 35–40° snow slope, and a full descent to Khare the same day — 10–12 hours moving. The terrain is non-technical but the altitude and duration are serious. Aerobic fitness training in the 3–4 months before departure matters more than any prior trekking credential.

Do I need trekking experience to join Mera Peak Expedition Nepal?

No technical experience needed. A full glacier training session is included at Khare on Day 7 — crampons, ice axe, fixed lines, roped travel — before you go any higher. Prior high-altitude trekking is an advantage but not a requirement. Fitness is.

When is the best time to do the Mera Peak Expedition Nepal?

October to early November: post-monsoon skies, firm glacier snow, low wind — the most reliable summit window of the year. April to May is the second-best option. We avoid the monsoon (June–September) and deep winter (December–February).

What permits are required and do you arrange them?

Three permits are required: Mera Peak Climbing Permit (Nepal Mountaineering Association), Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit, and TIMS card. All three are arranged and included in your package. Nothing additional to pay on arrival.

What's included in the price?

Included: domestic flights (Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu), 2 nights Kathmandu hotel, all trek accommodation, high camp tents, all meals as per itinerary, certified high-altitude guide, porter (1 per 2 climbers), all technical equipment (crampons, harness, ice axe, helmet, fixed lines), all permits, and pulse oximeter monitoring throughout. Not included: international flights, Nepal visa, travel insurance, personal clothing and boots, and tips.

Can I join as a solo traveller?

Yes. Solo travellers join regularly. A single supplement applies — ask on enquiry.

How large are your groups?

Maximum 8 climbers per departure. No more than 4 climbers per guide on summit day.

Do I need travel insurance?

Mandatory. Must cover mountaineering above 6,500m and helicopter evacuation — standard travel policies typically exclude both. Confirm with your insurer before purchasing.

What happens if I develop altitude sickness?

Your guide takes pulse oximeter readings morning and evening from Day 4 onwards. If AMS symptoms worsen, descent is immediate and non-negotiable. Helicopter evacuation is available from Khare and Lukla — which is why comprehensive travel insurance covering evacuation above 6,500m is a mandatory condition of joining this expedition.

Are your trek guides licensed and certified?

All Summit Routes high-altitude guides are Nepal Tourism Board licensed and Nepal Mountaineering Association certified for technical peak guiding. Your lead guide carries a pulse oximeter, blood pressure monitor, and full first aid kit throughout. Maximum 4 climbers per guide on summit day.

What technical equipment is provided and what do I bring myself?

All technical gear is provided: crampons, harness, helmet, ice axe, carabiners, and fixed lines. You bring personal clothing — boots, gaiters, down layers, gloves, sleeping bag rated to -15°C. Double-plastic mountaineering boots are required above Khare; hire is available in Kathmandu. Full kit list with minimum specifications is sent on booking.

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📅 2026 Departures — Mera Peak Expedition (14 Days)

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Oct 08 – Oct 26

Arrive & Depart: Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal

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Mera Peak Expedition Nepal

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Mera Peak Expedition Nepal (14 Days)

Arrive & Depart: Kathmandu (KTM), Nepal

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